Anyone can make a decent salad, but it takes some skill and
know-how to create a masterpiece in green. It's important, first, to brush up
on the basics: Are you sufficiently drying your greens? Are your toppers
crushing the delicate leaves? Once you've finished your refresher course,
though, there's one big, often-overlooked piece of advice you've got to
remember: You've got to pair the right dressing with the right greens.
Think this isn't a big deal? Think again. Just imagine
tender spring mix leaves doused with creamy-crumbly blue cheese. They'd be smothered
beyond recognition! And what about arugula with a peppercorn-heavy vinaigrette?
Your salad would be tragically spicy. This is important stuff, so we called in
the pros: Senior food editor Dawn Perry and assistant food editor Claire
Saffitz in the Bon Appétit test kitchen gave us the rundown on what dressing is
a perfect match for just about every salad your heart could desire.
Arugula
Peppery arugula leaves are best when tempered with a little
sweetness—try adding honey or maple to your vinaigrette. And keep in mind that
arugula wilts quickly and aggressively, so avoid heavy dressings (skip the
cream and Dijon mustard), and use a light hand when tossing everything
together. Your best bet for a dressing? Simple salt, pepper, vinegar or lemon
juice, and olive oil with just a touch of honey.
Tender Head Lettuce (bibb, red leaf, green leaf, little gem,
etc.)
Similar to arugula in texture and tenderness, tender head
lettuces also requires a featherlight touch. Unlike arugula, though, the leaves
aren't bitter, and don't need any additional sweetness. Just salt, pepper,
vinegar/lemon, and olive oil are sufficient.
Endive
Endive's intensely bitter, and it's also hefty, with thick
leaves. If there was ever an opportunity to embrace sweetness and fat in a
dressing, this is it: Endive can seriously hold its own against a creamy blue
cheese dressing.
Frisée
Also bitter, but much rougher and frillier than endive, this
chicory is screaming for both fat and salt. A warm bacon vinaigrette is the
classic choice—and one we particularly like. Emulsifying your dressing with an
egg yolk (or just breaking a poached egg on top of the greens) wouldn't be the
worst thing in the world, either.
Grains (farro, wheat berries, barley, etc.)
Grain salads need a good dressing just as much as your
favorite garden salad. These chewy, filling dishes can stand up to creamier
dressings that make good use of buttermilk, tahini, or mild, soft cheese.
"Basically, anything goes here except ranch," says Perry. The
aggressive, peppery flavor of ranch will mask the unique flavor of the grains.
Be liberal with your use of herbs, and dress the grains just after cooking,
while they're still warm—the dressing will be absorbed and incorporated better.
Iceberg
Iceberg has great crunch but not a ton of flavor, so it's up
to your dressing to make things sing. We say yes to the classic blue
cheese-and-bacon wedge salad, but would definitely not be mad if you whip up an
ugly-but-crazy-tasty caramelized-onion dressing. To make a caramelized-onion
dressing, think dip (sour cream, a little mayonnaise, some lemon for acidity,
caramelized onions with fresh scallion or chive), and thin it with water until
it's pourable. Ranch is A-OK, too, and in fact, the only time we advocate not
using a creamy dressing with iceberg is when it's chopped up finely and dressed
Italian pizza joint-style, with plenty of oregano and peperoncini.
Kale
Kale's hefty. It's important to slice it thinly so you don't
suffer from jaw fatigue before the salad's half-eaten. Incorporating a good
amount of acid to your dressing—think plenty of lemon juice—will further break
down the cellular structure of the leaves, making them easier to eat and
digest. Don't drown the greens, though; nobody likes a soggy salad. Here's more
on how to make the perfect kale salad.
Radicchio
This chicory is bitter, like endive, but a little more
tender. It can handle a dressing with Dijon or an egg yolk, but fares best
without a heavy dumping of cream or mayonnaise. Don't forget the sweetener.
Romaine
"The world is your oyster with Romaine," says
Perry. It's crunchy like iceberg, so creamy dressings are a go, but it also
fares nicely with a simple vinaigrette. Feel free to experiment.
Spinach
Be wary of the wilt with spinach salads—these leaves succumb
to very acidic and creamy dressings quickly. Sturdy, mature leaves can handle a
little creaminess or heat (again, we're fans of that warm bacon dressing), but
baby spinach needs no more than olive oil, salt, pepper, and a squeeze of
lemon.
Spring/Summer Mix
These tender leaves are pillow-soft. Keep things simple with
the most basic vinaigrette possible, letting the sweetness of the lettuce shine
through.
Swiss Chard
Chard is thin but tough. To help tenderize the leaves, tear
them into bite-size pieces and dress them with something sweet and acidic, like
this tomato vinaigrette. Its flavor runs toward earthy (especially the stems),
so think light and bright when dressing.
Watercress
Watercress looks delicate but its flavor is bossy—peppery
and fresh, with some bite. Embrace fat, sweetness, and a medium-level
creaminess (hello, buttermilk).
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